Ain: A Chic Weekend in Voltaire’s Homeland

Regardless of the season, it promises to be a pleasant and chic stay on the foothills of the Jura range, just 30 minutes from the Bellegarde TGV station (Ain) and 10 minutes from Geneva Airport (Switzerland).

Nestled in Crozet (Ain), at the heart of a private 50-hectare estate, the Jiva Hill Hotel & Spa***** offers refined hospitality in an exceptional setting with, on sunny days, the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc on the horizon.

For the Swiss, and especially residents of nearby Geneva, this Relais & Châteaux is among the must-escape destinations in neighboring France.

For the French, it is an ideal place to unwind in peaceful countryside, to enjoy fine cuisine, to stay active, to indulge in a superb wellness offering, and to treat oneself to a valuable cultural discovery: the château de Ferney where, for the last twenty years of his life, Voltaire, the famous “philosopher of the Enlightenment,” resided there.

From the moment you arrive, you are greeted by a distinctive, indefinable yet pleasant olfactory signature. And by a warm, inviting atmosphere.

The Jiva Hill unfolds its contemporary buildings inspired by South African lodges, but tempered with a graceful touch of Scandinavian spirit amid the greenery.

Its wooden structures present themselves as eco-responsible (renewable energies, water management, etc.).

This is how the owners envisioned it, a Swedish couple who fell in love with this corner of the Ain because it allowed them to combine their passions: water-skiing for him and horseback riding for her.

Inside as well, dark wood takes center stage throughout. That is evident from the vast lobby opening onto the bar — where one can savor a fine selection of cocktails while enjoying the view over the indoor pool — and a range of small lounge areas, also open.

Wood is omnipresent in the corridors that stretch lengthwise. It also dominates the bedrooms and suites.

Other raw and natural materials such as concrete, marble, and plant fibers reinforce the warm ambiance, enhanced by touches of gray and copper.

Opened in 2007 with 28 rooms and a restaurant, the Jiva Hill has undergone several phases of expansion and transformation.

In 2020, the hotel underwent a new metamorphosis. This allowed it to offer new services to its clientele—whether family or business—and to expand its capacity with the addition of 20 more rooms and suites in a new building.

Since then, it offers 48 rooms across several categories (between 25 and 35 m2) and 2 suites of 100 m2 each, particularly dedicated to families.

Expect rates starting at €395 for a Deluxe room and €1,000 for a suite. Pricing is in keeping with the refinement.

“My” room—the 403—, a Superior category with mountain view, was located in the new building. Although the décor is modern and minimalist, the wood is everywhere and the subdued lighting weaves a cozy, intimate atmosphere.

Outside the expansive bay window opening onto the leafy park, the coffee table and the two wooden armchairs invited a seat on the small terrace to sip a drink drawn from the room’s bar.

Then it’s hard to resist the call of the park: in these early September days, there’s no heat wave, but there is a sublime light.

Our little stroll was barely disturbed by a few birds’ cries, the rippling of a water jet splashing below, and the distant sound of clubs striking balls on the nine-hole golf course at Jiva Hill, which attracts many enthusiasts of the little white ball.

On the hill right behind, the chairlift that climbs to the slopes of Monts-Jura was idle. You can ski there in winter, but the snow is now less abundant…

At dinner time, head to the gastronomic restaurant Le Jiva. Here too, the contemporary, minimalist décor and the omnipresence of wood weave a beautiful ambiance.

Knighted as a Master Chef of France in 2023, the chef Jean-François Vasseur has been leading the Jiva’s kitchens since March 2019. Previously, he built solid experience in the starred kitchens of grand hotels.

While the menu at the second restaurant, named “Le Jardin,” invites travel, the Jiva’s cuisine is French and regional in inspiration. It highlights seasonal products sourced within a 360 km radius of the resort.

Hence the name given to the 360 menu that we tested. A wonderful success at a very reasonable price (€90 per person). Let us commend, without hesitation, the precision of the cooking, the originality of the garnishes, and the delicacy of the flavors.

For starters, a tomato trio with fresh sheep’s milk cheese, tomato ice cream, gazpacho, and house-made fougasse. Then came a fillet of féra (a Jura lake fish), followed by a delectable roasted veal loin with a braised chard and sweetbreads, girolles, and a rich jus.

To finish, bread pudding with Saint-Germain liqueur, Carpentras strawberries, elderberry cream, strawberry jus, and brioche ice cream was a real treat for the palate.

Also read: La Meuse, in slow and chic mode

Discovering this domain labeled “Maison des illustres” (9€ entry) and the temporary exhibition (until January 3, 2027) titled “I descended into my garden… Destinies of Candide” invites you to relive — with little effort — the lively debates of 18th-century thought, and to revisit the life and works of a philosopher whom even those who studied him in high school have often forgotten later.

Moreover, although it has been substantially revised by the four owners who succeeded Voltaire until the state’s purchase in 1999, this château offers a pretty good idea of the lifestyle of this philosopher who became quite wealthy thanks to his investments and his books.

The furniture and decoration reflect the tastes of 18th-century elites, but the profusion of portraits, engravings, and busts of Voltaire is somewhat surprising. It seems to reflect the philosopher’s desire to stage his own celebrity!

After this fascinating discovery, we returned to the Jiva Hill for lunch, at the outdoor pool bar, with a pea soup, mint cream, confit garlic, followed by a seared sea bass fillet with sautéed vegetables.

In the afternoon, we felt the urge to continue exploring the surroundings. We were spoiled for choice.

Heritage enthusiasts would have opted for Fort l’Ecluse (24 km from the hotel), a military ouvrage built into the mountainside after the Pays de Gex joined France in 1601, on the site of an old fortress erected by the lords of Gex at the beginning of the 13th century. The Camino de Santiago passes by there, and around it, small trails offer beautiful strolls to the village of Léaz.

However, it was Lake Léman that drew us first. It is best to check at the reception before heading there from Jiva Hill to avoid getting lost in urban areas and construction sites.

We were thus advised either Port-Choiseul Beach (25 minutes) where one can swim, rent paddle boards, and have barbecues (grills available), or Port-Gitana in Bellevue (20 miles) where there is a snack bar and a small beach.

Or Port du Creux-de-Genthod (25 minutes) where you can swim, paddle, and enjoy a pleasant meal (though we did not try it) with excellent pike fillets, a specialty of Lake Geneva!

On the way back from Jiva Hill, a long detour via the Spa was a welcome break.

Lacking a booked treatment (here, using products from Sothys), we made a quick stop in the gym before trying the outdoor pool, then lingering in the pleasantly warm indoor pool, and finally spending time in the jacuzzi…

Time flew by so quickly that we hardly had time to enjoy Jiva Hill’s leisure offerings, which include numerous books and a private cinema room for guests. There are also beautiful spaces to host events.

In addition to a 9-hole golf course, the park also houses several clay tennis courts and an artificial lake that enables water-sport activities.

The park is also suited for running, track cycling (bikes available for hire), or hikes with breathtaking views of the mountains and Mont-Blanc.

Definitely, we will need to return…

Also read: Cognac: I tested the Hôtel Chais Monnet & Spa*****