La Gomera: Spectacular Roques Hike in the Canary Islands’ Volcanic Heartland


La Gomera : randonnée spectaculaire des Roques au cœur de l’île volcanique des Canaries - Photo JFR

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A hands-on geography lesson and a major physical exercise. It is by paying with one’s body that one will best enjoy one of the most impressive mountainous landscapes of La Gomera: The Roques, four volcanic spires rising above semi-arid slopes dotted with shrubs and conifers.

In almost 6 hours of walking, this looped itinerary begins and ends at La Laja, fifteen kilometers from San Sebastián, the main town of La Gomera.


Randonnée : la Laja, hameau niché dans un ravin

Beyond the last houses of this hamlet perched in a ravine, the path climbs steeply into the terrain toward the El Bailadero viewpoint.

Rapidement, la nature volcanique du terrain s’impose. Quelques dizaines de mètres plus loin se dresse, à droite du chemin, un haut mur naturel de pierre brun rouille.

Dans le langage local, on l’appelle un taparucha, une petite colonne de remontée de magma solidifiée et dégagée par l’érosion.


Filons verticaux et paysages volcaniques

Geologically, this is a dyke. Some have detached from the substrate, like this one. Others are enclosed in the rocks and form vertical veins, “rayant” the landscape.

As the trail climbs — one sometimes has to orient oneself by the cairns, small piles of stones marking the route — the view opens onto the first roque.

This is a bullet-shaped, conical rock; it is Ojila. Perched at 1,171 meters above sea level, it is made of trachybasalt. A remnant of the island’s ancient activity as well, two million years ago, this sugarloaf is in fact an old and wide eruption chimney eroded by the wear of the softer rocks that surrounded it.


La Gomera : repos bienvenue à El Bailadero

This hike confirms the volcanic origin of La Gomera. The peaks and slopes were subsequently shaped by water erosion and covered with vegetation that varies according to exposure to winds and sun. After 2 hours and nearly 500 meters of cumulative ascent, fatigue begins to set in.

Into a silence barely disturbed by the ringing of sheep bells rising from the valley floor, the El Bailadero viewpoint, at an altitude of 1,050 m, offers a welcome rest.

All visible to the south, the four roques undoubtedly constitute one of the most beautiful viewpoints of the hike: Ojila, Agando, La Zarcita and Carmona stand out against the azure sky.


Vue sur le Teide, point culminant de l’Espagne

What follows is a fairly long trek through the humid forest before reaching the summit of the hike, at nearly 1,250 meters above sea level. The Teide peak, towering over the neighboring island of Tenerife, looms on the horizon. This active volcano, perched at 3,715 meters, serves as the backdrop to multiple panoramas of La Gomera. It is the highest point in Spain.

After another pause at the belvedere of the roque d’Agando, the highest of the four (1,251 meters above sea level), the route descends into the La Laja valley, a quick plunge into a forest of Canary pines that leaves behind the four most famous sugarloaf peaks of La Gomera.

La Gomera: Humid Forest, a Natural Jewel of the Canary Islands


The Laurel Forest of La Gomera, a Unique Canary Islands Ecosystem

La Gomera : dans la forêt humide, joyau naturel des Canaries ! - Photo JFR

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The laurisilva, or laurel forest.

This is the scientifically sounding name used to describe this type of forest, almost permanently drenched by the dense haze arising from the clouds that rise along La Gomera’s slopes.

Spread between 800 m and 1,487 m in altitude, the island’s highest point, this forest is largely included in the Garajonay National Park, created in 1981 to protect this sensitive ecosystem.


A UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve at the Heart of La Gomera

UNESCO also listed it on the World Heritage List in 1986 before designating it as a biosphere reserve in 2012.

If it stands out against the island’s otherwise dry scenery, that’s because this grove thrives under the influence of the winds, particularly under the trade-wind regime.

Coming from the northeast, they drive clouds loaded with water vapor toward the summit slopes.

They then shed their water droplets onto the trees and shrubs, forming a humid subtropical undergrowth of incomparable plant wealth.


A Three-Hour Hike Through Garajonay’s Humid Forest

In order to observe the phenomenon up close, head to el monte, the name locals of La Gomera give to this high-altitude forest.

From the island’s west and the village of Arure, a nearly 3-hour hiking route forms a loop and starts at the hamlet of Acardece.

As you rise through the different levels of the laurisilva, the opening stretch of the route, facing south, reveals a beautiful scrub vegetation, blending heathers and various shrubs.


Primary Forest Landscapes Shaped by the Trade Winds

At the entrance to Garajonay National Park, the landscape changes radically.

The path suddenly plunges into a dense forest formed by arborescent heathers, holly, laurels, and nearly twenty other tree species.

Initially dry in appearance, it becomes more humid as you ascend along the route, gradually leaving behind the southern influence to face winds coming from the north.


Mosses, Ferns and Lichens: a Tolkien-esque Atmosphere

At the place called Raso de la Bruma, the trail crosses a road and leans distinctly toward the north. A new atmosphere!

The twisted trunks and the branches of heathers, some specimens reaching up to 20 meters tall—a sort of world record—are wrapped in moist mosses and lichens.

Mixed with fern-covered soils, this emerald fuzz creates a Tolkien-like landscape, in a surprisingly cool freshness.


Why You Should Discover La Gomera’s Laurel Forest Right Now