Around Saumur: a subterranean escape in the land of “troglos”
The Saumur area offers the widest troglodyte ensemble in the Loire Valley! These cavities are former tuffeau quarries, the soft stone used to build the castles. Many have been converted into wine cellars, gîtes and other underground curiosities. Starting from Saumur, following La Loire à Vélo on the south bank, you come across the formidable caves of the Ackerman wine house, then those of the Mushroom Museum. After 15 km, from Gennes-Val-de-Loire, rural roads (marked route by Grézillé and Rochemenier) lead to Doué-en-Anjou, renowned for its “plain” caverns. There one tastes fouées, small bread loaves stuffed with rillette or mushrooms, before visiting the zoo, also troglodytic. After Le Puy-Notre-Dame, a short stretch of the Vélo Francette (the Ouistreham–La Rochelle véloroute) reconnects at Montreuil-Bellay with a winding path (marker “10”) to Fontevraud Abbey, via Brézé and its castle with underground chambers carved into rock. A few pedal strokes bring you back to the Loire and Saumur, through villages like Turquant and its Bistroglo. From Doué and Montreuil-Bellay, it’s easy to ride straight back to Saumur to shorten the itinerary.
Practical
Length : 150 km
Duration : 3 to 4 days
What to see along the way : the Ackerman cellars, the troglodyte village of Rochemenier, Doué-en-Anjou, Brézé Castle, Fontevraud Abbey…
Tours and the Indre Valley: in the saddle in the land of castles
A ride at the heart of the Loire Valley’s treasures, blending two cycling routes: La Loire à Vélo and the Cyclo Bohème, or the Indre véloroute. Starting from Tours, along the Cher to the west, one first admires the gardens of the Château de Villandry, considered one of the most accomplished examples of the French Renaissance style. A little farther, the banks of the Loire come into view. The fortress of Langeais, perched on the opposite bank of the river, is worth crossing for! At Bréhémont, head east onto the Cyclo Bohème, which leisurely climbs the Indre’s winding paths. The Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, this “diamond facet-set by the Indre” (as Balzac put it), does not take long to reveal itself. In Montbazon, Tours is only a few pedal strokes away. But it’s worth prolonging the experience: extend to Loches, then aim for Chenonceaux, via a marked route on quiet back roads. A cycling path runs along the left bank of the Cher, offering a striking view of the château. From here, a final detour to Amboise and Clos Lucé, where Leonardo da Vinci spent the last three years of his life, beautifully caps this excursion in the land of noble residences.
Practical
Length : 180 km
Duration : 4 to 5 days
Things to see along the way : the gardens of Villandry, the Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, the royal town of Loches, the Château de Chenonceau, Amboise, Clos Lucé…
➤ Article published in GEO HS magazine no. 134, “Great Escapes at Slow Speed,” August–September 2026.
➤ If you love GEO, then to miss nothing, discover our subscription plans to receive GEO at home every month with ease.
Quieter, sometimes forgotten by traditional circuits, Banteay Srei, Neak Pean, Banteay Samrè, or Phnom Kulen reveal another grandeur of Khmer civilization: refined architecture, centuries-old places of devotion, and landscapes steeped in mystery.
Banteay Srei, a jewel of pink sandstone
Guardians with monkey heads (photo) or lions, graceful dancers, garlands of delicate flowers… Located far from the beaten tracks, 30 km from the main site, Banteay Srei is one of the rare temples that was not commissioned by a king, but by a high dignitary, in the year 967. It is nonetheless legendary in more ways than one. First, because it was built in pink sandstone, and secondly… because André Malraux once borrowed its bas-reliefs, in 1923! Go at opening (7:30 a.m.), when Cambodians come to burn incense.
Neak Pean, the island of waters that heal
On the Grand Circuit, do not miss a stop on the northern bank of Jayatataka Baray, an artificial reservoir. From there, a wooden footbridge spans the water to lead to Neak Pean, a XIIth-century Buddhist complex. This island-sanctuary remains sacred in the eyes of Cambodians. Its basins, designed to recreate on Earth the mythical lake Anavatapta, located in the Himalayas, house waters with healing properties, into which pilgrims would splash themselves to ward off diseases.
Banteay Samrè, the little brother of Angkor Wat
It’s one of the best-kept secrets of the archaeological park. No one goes there, and yet this XIIth-century temple is exceptional. Moreover, Banteay Samrè will remind you of something: here is the miniature copy of the most famous Khmer temple, Angkor Wat! The same elegance, the same play of symmetry, the same lotus-bud shaped sanctuary tower. Combine its visit with that of Banteay Srei, and take the opportunity to stop in a village along the roadside to taste artisanal palm sugar.
The Roluos Complex, the cradle of Khmer art
Any visit to the archaeological park should always begin with this fabulous site of the first Angkorian art from the 9th century, located near the village of Roluos, 15 km east of Siem Reap. This complex indeed tells the crucial transition from brick-and-wood constructions to those in stone (gray sandstone). Three temples to explore: Lolei, Preah Ko, and Bakong. The latter, in remarkable condition, is flanked by a modern monastery. The monks’ psalms are a delight…
Phnom Kulen, the Mount Olympus of Cambodia
At 487 m in height and 50 km from Siem Reap, Phnom Kulen is more than a mountain dominating the virgin forest. The country’s independence as an empire was proclaimed here in 802. On this spiritual mountain, one meets monks in saffron robes, families in festive attire, and hermits seeking to meditate. A “river of a thousand lingams” (phallic symbols) and waterfalls flow here, where one enjoys bathing. Do not miss the grand reclining Buddha, in the small temple at the summit.
The most beautiful spots to admire sunrises and sunsets
After living the euphoria of a dawn at Angkor Wat, experience another early wake-up call, this time away from the crowds, at the mount temple of Phnom Bakheng, a site that opens at 5 a.m. We climb in the dark on this natural hill where a gray stone pyramid sits. An exceptional view of the sun rising from the foliage, with Angkor Wat in the distance, seen in silhouette. In the evening, around 5 p.m., head to Pre Rup, dedicated to Shiva, with its imposing towers that rise above the forest.
They helped us produce this report
Specialists in Cambodia, Les Maisons du Voyage invite you to trace the footsteps of our reporters, with a thirteen-day and ten-night circuit, from 2835 euros (flights, accommodations, visits and a French-speaking guide included). From Kampot to Siem Reap, far from the mapped routes, this journey tells the glorious hours of the gods-king of Angkor. The program includes little-known archaeological sites, isolated villages with ancestral traditions, and encounters with the Khmer people, who are reconnecting with their invaluable heritage. Committed to responsible tourism, the local partner ensures that each journey benefits Cambodian communities and the preservation of the heritage. maisonsduvoyage.com
➤ Article published in GEO magazine no. 570, “Cambodia,” August 2026.
➤ Do you love GEO? Then to miss nothing, discover our subscription options to receive GEO monthly at home with ease.
A land of plenty where the hippies made their home
Morro Bay, Sacred Nature
From desert to Sequoias, the spirit of Indigenous peoples lingers
Spring has taken up residence in Sacramento, about a 90‑minute drive north of San Francisco. Along brick buildings covered with colorful murals, people stroll with iced coffee in hand, in the cool river air and the scent of honeysuckle. At 1215 19th Street, in the artsy Midtown district, Patrick Mulvaney goes from table to table on the terrace of the restaurant bearing his name. Local caviar, house‑made smoked salmon, crackling pork with miso and apple butter, all washed down with sparkling wines… For more than twenty years, this jovial sixty‑something in his eternal Hawaiian shirt has been the local face of the Slow Food movement, born in 1986 in Italy to counter the threat of fast foods. “Our valley is America’s pantry,” he boasts. “Tomatoes, grapes, rice, apricots… I can cook in the evening with fruits and vegetables picked that morning!” Several times a week, the chef stocks up about 20 km away, at the Soil Born urban farm on the banks of the American River. This 22‑hectare operation on public land has been cultivated since 2001 by an association that runs weekly markets and feeds the surrounding schools and restaurants with organic, seasonal vegetables.
From “flower power” to “farmers markets”
Delicious, healthy, locally sourced products, in California, the land of technology, glitter, and intensive agriculture (like the tomato, a staple of ketchup)? The wealthiest state in the United States still manages to surprise! In Sacramento, the stronghold of horticulture in the United States, locavorian logic has boldly been enshrined as a principle by the authorities. In 2012, the city proclaimed itself the capital of the Farm-to-Fork movement (“from the farm to the plate”), which advocates sourcing from local growers. Hospital kitchens, for example, source 90% of their supplies within a 240‑km radius, ensuring steady income for producers and aiding their transition to organic. A move that contrasts with the consumerism and competitive spirit that prevail elsewhere in the Golden State. And it invites even tourists to break away from clichés. San Francisco, Los Angeles, Yosemite, Death Valley: these destinations remain essential. But to truly taste the California dolce vita, you must venture to off‑radar spots, where the joy is in good eating, slow time, and preserved nature. A California still steeped in the animism of Indigenous peoples, the pastoral frugality of ranchers, and the ideals of the hippies, many of whom returned to the land here.
The Local Flavor
It is precisely during the flower-power years, in 1974, that Randii MacNear arrived in Davis, a city of 65,000 adjacent to Sacramento, whose university is renowned for its agriculture department. Born near New York, this woman passionate about local produce helped establish here in 1977 the first Certified Farmers’ Market in California, a label guaranteeing the local origin of products. On this bright March Saturday, she welcomes customers who head toward about forty stalls lined under wrought‑iron canopies. To Balkan tunes played by an accordionist, families, retirees, and green‑haired youths fill their baskets with early vegetables, goat cheeses, and loaves of bread sold directly and at fair prices by regional growers, some of whom have run their stalls since the market’s founding. An almost rural vibe that Randii says was inspired… by the Old Continent!
“In Europe, the market square sits at the center of villages, and you know those who feed you by their first names,” she says. “That’s what we wanted to reproduce here.”
All around, the heart of Davis radiates the same relaxed atmosphere. Along broad sidewalks flecked with oaks, maples, and ginkgo trees, a whole spectrum of cafés, bakeries, second‑hand bookstores, art galleries… and even a bike‑friendly network, a rarity in the United States, letting you pedal to explore historic Davis (Davis Bike Loop, 19 km) or local craft breweries (Davis Brewery Bike Loop, 16 km).
Old Objects, New Life
Along the country roads that traverse the Yolo County saline plains, where large farms coexist with small organic growers, you can also reach Park Winters, a Victorian estate dating from 1865, tucked among pistachio and sunflower fields. In 2010, Rafael Galiano and John Martin traded the hustle of San Francisco for this four‑hectare property, converting it into a chic country bed & breakfast that appeals to urban, well‑off locals. The place, though upscale, cultivates a sense of conviviality and rustic simplicity.
“What we love is giving old objects a new life”, notes Rafael, as cats purr on cushions and blackbirds flit through the garden trees. Almost everything here is upcycled: the piano that belonged to the previous owner, the chairs, the sideboard, the counter… Every weekend, the hosts serve guests a seasonal brunch, set out under a vast covered veranda. Opposite, fields of flowers invite visitors to pick their own bouquet of carnations, ranunculus, or sweet peas, for 38 dollars the two hours. “Believe me, it’s more effective than thirty minutes with a shrink!” laughs the host.
3 Hidden Delicacies of California Terroir
Ollalieberry : a cousin of the blackberry and raspberry, this very sweet and tangy fruit grows only in Oregon and California. In the coastal town of Cambria, Linn’s Easy as Pie café sells it as syrups, jams, jellies, and luscious tarts.
Dates : in Indio, near Palm Springs, the Shields Date Garden palm grove produces common varieties (Medjool, Barhi) and others unique in the world, like the Brunettes, less sweet, with a honey and caramel aroma.
Pacific Gold Oysters : these small Pacific oysters with firm flesh and very salty taste are raised, for example, by the Morro Bay Oyster Company. You can buy them on site and enjoy them perched facing the bay, watching the otters.
Lodi, the Wine Differently
Further south, in the little town of Lodi, Jeremy and Choral Trettevik have set out to develop a more sustainable and accessible alternative to California’s dazzling yet often exclusive wines. Unlike the posh valleys of nearby Napa and Sonoma, the Lodi wine region is known for producing everyday table wine. It has also recently welcomed vintners eager for virtuous practices, such as limiting irrigation in a California prone to severe droughts. The couple Trettevik are part of this movement. On their operation along Route 88, in an anthracite‑colored barn that starkly contrasts with the blue sky, they strive to offer free tastings and wine‑education lessons in a country where such practices are viewed as elitist. They also host local events. This Saturday, a producer market set up at the foot of the century‑old Zinfandel plant. Glasses in hand, to the backdrop of a small concert, locals trade plants, take cuttings of vines… and bottles. “Modern life is obsessed with money and success,” laments Jeremy Trettevik. “If people have money to spend on wine, let them put it in a bottle to share with friends!”
From Lodi you can reach Interstate 5 within a few miles, which heads toward Los Angeles across the endless Central Valley agricultural basin. In the distance to the left, the first foothills of the Sierra Nevada, with peaks still snow‑covered at the end of March. To the right, the heights of the Diablo Mountains, which hide access to the Paso Robles region and San Luis Obispo County, a bastion of La Dolce Vita often overlooked by tourists, where Pacific breezes kiss green pastures ideal for grazing.
“Life is too beautiful to hurry”
In the hamlet of Parkfield, the Varian family has been keeping the V6 Ranch running since the 1960s, an 8,000‑hectare estate populated by beef cattle where the simple cowboy lifestyle—centered on family, land, and livestock—persists. Today, John and Barbara Varian also welcome outsiders. They host guests in cottages converted from old village buildings and offer a Western‑tinged program: barbecue (sitting on saddles repurposed as stools!), horseback rides, and lasso lessons… Each year their bluegrass music festival echoes through the mountains with fiddles, harmonicas, and banjos. “Here, the land is like a member of the family: that is the message we want to share,” explains Barbara, recalling the slogan of San Luis Obispo County: “Life is too beautiful to hurry.”
A land of plenty where hippies made their home
This motto seems to permeate this utopia half‑way between San Francisco and Los Angeles, even along the coast where briny air blends with scents of eucalyptus and maritime pines. No surprise that hippies once settled in the coastal villages of Cambria and Cayucos to pursue pottery and body painting away from the city. Although they long ago ceded space to retirees and surfers, a relaxed, timeless spirit still lingers. Shops close at 5 p.m., wine bar terraces populate the lawns, and people greet one another without knowing each other. Nature, too, remains fully present. In Morro Bay’s small fishing harbor, at the mouth of the Chorro and Los Osos creeks, nets are hauled in and fish are sold right on the pier. On the beach, children paddle a few strokes from the sea otters, which linger in these shallow waters to avoid shark jaws.
Morro Bay, Sacred Nature
At the foot of the natural history museum, Virginia Flaherty, an ornithologist and kayak guide, waits by her craft, life jacket in hand. With a few paddle strokes, the sixty‑somethings leads in a monastery‑like silence to the heart of the Morro Estuary Natural Preserve, a protected estuary where grebes, herons, turnstones, and other shorebirds thrive… But also remarkable bat rays, whose broad imprints can be seen in the sand where they bury themselves. In this expanse of water separated from the ocean by a dune, enormous red and yellow starfish sprawl across the rocks, pelicans bow their chests, and otter families drift off to sleep, their paws tangled.
Morro Bay is also famous for Morro Rock, a volcanic‑origin rock that towers above the bay at 176 meters. This landmark is sacred to the Salinan and Chumash tribes, the Indigenous peoples of the region. It’s a different story that surfaces throughout rural California: that of Indigenous peoples, present here for at least 19,000 years. Away from the metropolises and their sprawling suburbs, the names of rivers, mountains, and villages often derive from their heritage.
From Desert to Sequoias, the Spirit of Indigenous Peoples Floats
Even in Palm Springs, an artificial oasis in the desert east of the City of Angels, a resource long exploited by Indigenous peoples lies beneath the surface: a mineral spring at 40°C, slightly sulfurous, used to ease stress, muscle pains, and skin issues. The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, descended from the Cahuilla people, has managed to keep the operation going. To immerse yourself, you must visit the Spa at Séc‑he (“the sound of bubbling water”), a sacred cultural site adorned with mosaics of deities, such as Grandmother Spider, creator of the world. “Indigenous peoples have shaped the landscapes of this region for millennia,” explains Kate Anderson, spokesperson for the tribe. From desert to redwood forests, traces of our ancestral culture are everywhere. Even in these rough stone bathtubs where one now lounges, water bubbling up to the neck provides a pleasant way to reconnect with California’s deep soul!
Tracing a route in “Cool California”
Prefer regional airports
To avoid gridlock in big cities and dive straight into rural California. Car rentals are also cheaper there. Example itinerary: Paris–Sacramento via San Francisco on the way out, Palm Springs–Paris via Los Angeles on the return.
Stroll through farmers markets
Many small towns have their own. You can grab a bite, meet the local farmers… For market days: ecologycenter.org/food-farming/farmers-market-finder
Learn about Indigenous heritage
The Visit Native California site is full of information for discovering Indigenous California: places to visit, experiences… visitcalifornia.com/native
Try train + bike
Driving remains king, but there are alternatives! Amtrak operates five lines across the Golden State, with the option to bring your bike aboard. amtrak.com
Follow on Instagram
The Visit California tourism board’s account offers ideas for off‑the‑beaten‑path escapes.
➤ Article appeared in GEO HS magazine no. 134, “Grandes évasions à petite vitesse,” August–September 2026.
➤ If you love GEO, discover our subscription options to receive GEO at home every month.
Far from the big cities where stress and pollution are sometimes more palpable than a speed bump at 80 km/h, there are scattered around the world places where life can feel so good that people grow old, even very old. But what do they have that is so magical as to let their inhabitants blow out hundreds of candles?
What is a “Blue Zone”?
In the early 2000s, Michel Poulain, a Belgian demographer concerned with the role of the elderly in our societies, and Gianni Pes, an Italian physician, studied the longevity of the Sardinian population and mapped the villages where the most centenarians live. One area stood out more than the others: the Barbagia-Ogliastra zone, in the Nuoro province.
The two researchers are said to have outlined it in blue, and the first “Blue Zone” would thus be born. The journalist Dan Buettner would subsequently popularize the concept in National Geographic in 2004, enabling other “Blue Zones” to be identified later:
Okinawa, Japan
Nicoya, Costa Rica
Ikaria, Greece
Loma Linda, California
But while Blue Zones are the subject of extensive research today, their interpretation remains debated. Some scientists argue that the concept has sometimes been greatly simplified, or even idealized, by the wellness industry.
Where is the Sardinian Blue Zone?
Contrary to a widespread belief, there is not a single Blue Zone in Sardinia covering the entire island. The area identified by Michel Poulain and Gianni Pes in the early 2000s lies in east-central Sardinia, in Ogliastra and Barbagia, in the Nuoro province.
Among the villages regularly cited: Villagrande Strisaili, Arzana, Talana, Baunei, Urzulei, Perdasdefogu, Tiana, Ovodda and Orgosolo.
Note that in southern Sardinia, three other villages stand out for their number of nonagenarians and centenarians: Seulo, Teulada, Orroli.
Then in 2025, another site joined the list of already identified Blue Zones: the municipality of Arzachena, in Gallura (northeast Sardinia). However, this claim does not rest on scientific recognition as established as that of the Barbagia-Ogliastra historic zone.
